ASUS P8P67 LGA 1155 SATA 6Gbps USB 3.0 Supported Intel P67 ATX DDR3 2400 Motherboards P8P67 PRO
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- Intel P67 chipset supporting the 2nd Generation LGA 1155 Intel Core i7/Core i5/Core i3 Processors
- With AMD CrossFireX and NVIDIA SLI support
- SATA 6Gbps and USB 3.0 support
- Dual Gb LAN featuring the latest Intel and Realtek Chipsets
- EFI (Extensible Firmware Interface) BIOS
ASUS P8P67 LGA 1155 SATA 6Gbps USB 3.0 Supported Intel P67 ATX DDR3 2400 Motherboards P8P67 PRO; REV 3.1
Asus motherboard
ASUS P8P67 LGA 1155 SATA 6Gbps USB 3.0 Supported Intel P67 ATX DDR3 2400 Motherboards P8P67 PRO
List Price: $ 200.40
Price:
Nice Motherboard for an i5-2500K overclock,
I bought this motherboard to replace an aging (yet trusty) Asus P5W DH Deluxe and an Core 2 Q6600.
The installation was simple with a few annoyances listed in the cons below. Overall I am very happy with this motherboard. Asus generally produced quality products, and the P8P67 Pro is an example of that. The overclocking options are many, and the EFI BIOS is really nice to navigate. There are also plenty of RAID options.
Pros
– Straight forward overclocking. Can be done via the OS with one click to get you to 4.3Ghz.
– Stable with the latest BIOS
– Generally a good layout, with the exception of the SATA ports
– Plenty of USB ports, with 4 USB 3 ones
– 6.0Gbps SATA, which pairs perfectly with a a SSD
Cons
– The SATA port placement is a real pain in the butt. If you have to add an additional drive after installation, it’s gonna be a pain. You may have to remove the board depending on your case.
– The bundled BIOS was flaky, but an update fixed that.
– The EFI BIOS did not play nicely with my Microsoft Wireless Mouse. I had to use a wired one. (the Wireless Keyboard was fine)
– This was my second board. The first one had a bad PCIe 2x slot. Annoying.
My System
Asus P8P67 Pro
i5-2500K overclocked to 4.3Ghz
8GB G.Skill RipJaws 2 X 4GB
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
Western Digital 500GB Hard Drives X2 (RAID 1)
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|A few problems, but finally going well – easy to determine & solve problems.,
Purchase Date and Build dates:
The P8P67 Pro 3.1 MB was purchased at amazon.com 02/04/2012. I installed it 02/15/2012 (Build start date): At this time, I finally had all my components. The ASUS MB was the last item to arrive that day and I was anxious to start – It came with the lowest bios revision (0105), to my surprise. The “Asus build date” was listed in the bios as 11/30/2011.
Components for my System:
PC Case – Fractal Design Define R3 Black ATX Mid Tower Case.
M.B. – ASUS P8P67 Pro 3.1
PSU – Nexus Rx 5300
CPU – Intel i3-2125, 3.3 GHz
Cooler for CPU – Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
SSD – Corsair Force GT 180Gb SATA III (Solid State Drive)
RAM – Kingston, Memory Model KVR1333D3N9K2/8G (Slots A2, B2)
Video Card -VGA ASUS/GT520-1GD3- CSM 1G
Microsoft Windows 7 upgrade (both 32 & 64 bit).
Memory Card Reader/Writer, 17 in 1 – Sony SOMRW620U118
BUILD PROCEDURE AND PERCEPTION USING THE P8P67 PRO 3.1 Motherboard.
Installing Components:
I installed the CPU (1155 Socket), CPU Cooler, and RAM on MB first. Checked to see if CPU pins were not damaged (after taking off plastic cover) and that processor aligned with corner arrow before installing – pins were OK. (Cleaned both the CPU and Cooler base surface to better accept the Arctic 5), and spread the “thermal grease” onto the surface of the Cooler base. (Note: you can grease either the CPU surface or the cooler base surface, but not both). Next, I installed the DVD Drive and Memory Card Reader in front of case, and screwing the SSD to the bottom of a HDD rack. Next, I screwed in the “brass standoffs” for ATX pattern, and snapped in the “back plate”. I placed the MB in at an angle to fit with the back plate, and screwed in the MB and the PSU with the “fan face down”. (It is a modular PSU, and along with the design of the Fractal Case, I was able to route most cables in the back flat with tie downs – very neatly between the MB and back case cover.) It has a very clean unobstructed look and better air flow, and non-interference with the back cover and everything in between. I found it easy to place the back cover on with space to spare. Finally, installed the Video Card to the PCIe 2.0 x 16_2 slot (gray).
Attaching Cable Connectors:
Next, I attached a power connector to the SSD and the white right angle SATA6Gb/s connector from the SSD to the internal 7-Pin Intel SATA6Gb/s (Gray) connector. Did the same for the DVD drive (using SATA3G/s), attaching the power cable and the black SATA3Gb/s connector cable from the DVD drive to the (Blue) Intel 7-PinSATA 3Gb/s internal connector. Connected the EATX 24 Pin and 8 pin (4 + 4p) Power connectors. I used the Q connector for the Front Panel I/O Connector. Then, I connected the HD Audio, and the USB 2 for the Card Reader and a USB 3 connector for the front panel. (Caution: The USB 3, and the Q-connector may come loose – check from time to time). Next, I connected the CPU fan and the 2 case fans. And finally, I connected the Monitor, all the necessary cables and power cord to the back of the “PC case”.
Power Up:
First, I turned on the Power for the Monitor. Next, I left the case open to observe the Standby power LED and “Standby State LEDS”, when I was ready to press power button. I then turned the “PSU Switch” to on – I could then see that the green “Standby power Led” light was on. Next, I pressed the “Power Button” on top of my PC case. Immediately, I could hear the CPU fan and the case fans go on. Next, I noticed the “red lights” (all 4 onboard LEDS) going on one by one during the “Power-on Self Test”, until ‘one light was still on, next to the RAM’. No POST. At least I knew the possible cause, the RAM.
Correction, after Post Led light test:
I tried again, reinstalling the two sticks of RAM in the same blue slots. It did not work. I tried a second time, and both sticks seemed to snap in just right. So, I powered up again and the red light for the RAM went out. Alright!
But, there was now a “new red light” that went on, the “Post LED light’. And, since I seemed to have a POST on my Monitor (along with a double Asus logo going in cycle), I decided nevertheless to try to get into the Bios by pressing the “delete key”. After a few attempts I was in. I then changed the “first boot order to “DVD-Rom drive”. I put the Windows 7 DVD into the Drive, and in the Bios entered “save changes and reset”. I waited and it seemed not to work at first, and then the files started loading from Windows. As soon as that happened I noticed the “Post LED light (HDD) went out”. Alright! There still seems to be problems, but that can be solved later through the bios settings, updates, or other changes – I had now installed the operating system successfully, and the system is working good enough for now.
Solutions on other problems encountered:
After…
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|Good mobo but not for quad SLI,
I bought with motherboard to solve one main issue: my two GTX295 were not running at full capabilities on old P5N mobo. After reading of many articles and studying hardware I decided to upgrade to 2nd generation i5. This mobo claims that it’s quad SLI compatible (each GTX295 has two GPUs on-board) so, I ordered it. The mobo is very good, manufacturing quality is very high, documentation and wiring are all OK. But the problem is: quad SLI is unstable on it. I can ran any of my video cards in a single mode (actually, double SLI) but when I set both cards video driver just crash on init in any game. I use Corsair Professional 1200W PSU and EVGA video cards so, it’s unlikely that hardware is bad. I also tried three versions of NVIDIA drivers including the latest one. Since I was running quad SLI on my old machine with no issues (except under loading of GPUs) I tend to blame the mobo.
Though, PCIe x16 sockets have good layout. Most of the manufacturers place them too close and if you use two modern video cards you get a cooling problem since single card takes two expansion slots. Here x16 connectors has a gap of 2 slots which give you 1 slot of space between the cards.
Other issues:
– Win7 cannot install drivers for most motherboard devices. HDD and video get detected with no problems but network, raid and other staff need supplied CD.
– Even when all drivers have been installed one device still doesn’t work: PCI-controller Simple Communications. I have no idea what it is. Windows doesn’t have idea too.
– Mobo has built-in Bluetooth. Nice to have but not very useful. I’d prefer WiFi module or extra USB 3.0 port.
Note for those who own 2-cores video cards. In order to make use of both cores you *must* activate SLI in drivers. If you don’t do that your video will be running on a single GPU. There are people who use default settings and claim bad performance but it’s just a wrong setting.
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